Hungary · Central Europe
Budapest
Budapest is two cities in one: hilly, royal Buda and flat, buzzing Pest, split by the Danube. Grand thermal baths, ruin bars in crumbling courtyards, and cozy cobbled streets around the castle - one of Europe's best-value capitals, and one I loved filming street by street.
Best season
April to June and September; December is cold but magical with Christmas markets and steaming outdoor baths.
What it costs
One of Europe's cheapest capitals. Thermal bath entry 20-28 EUR, dinner with wine 15-25 EUR, good central apartments 60-100 EUR a night.
Getting there
Budapest Ferenc Liszt airport, 40 minutes by bus 100E to the centre; direct trains from Vienna (2.5 hours) and Prague.
Getting around
Excellent and cheap metro, trams and buses - a 72-hour travel card covers everything; the castle district and cosy Buda streets are best on foot.
Highlights
- Szechenyi thermal bath outdoor pools
- Fisherman's Bastion at sunrise
- ruin bars in the Jewish Quarter
- Danube evening cruise past the lit Parliament
- the cozy cobbled streets of the Castle District
Local tips
- Buy bath tickets online to skip lines
- validate every transport ticket - inspectors are strict
- the Parliament is best photographed from the Buda embankment at blue hour.
What to eat
- Goulash in a paprika-red broth
- langos with sour cream and cheese at Central Market Hall
- chimney cake (kurtoskalacs) from a street stall
- Tokaji wine.
Where to stay
- Pest side near the Jewish Quarter for nightlife
- Castle District in Buda for quiet cobbled lanes.
Sample itinerary
Day 1: Pest - Parliament, St Stephen's Basilica, Central Market, ruin bars. Day 2: Buda - Castle Hill, Fisherman's Bastion, cozy streets of the old town, evening Danube cruise. Day 3: Szechenyi baths, Heroes' Square and City Park.